Central Peru Birding Adventure September 2020/2021

Even though several birders visit the Central Andes of Peru each year, this still is perhaps one of the most unknown birding routes of South America, completely unjustified.

This magnificent tour is designed to take you across the central Andes of Peru, visiting different kinds of habitats and ecosystems at different elevations, which provide a different set of unique avian species, including several country endemics not found anywhere else. We will start the trip visiting the coast of Lima, exploring habitats like the cold waters of the Humboldt Current and other habitats on the western slope of the Andes, such as freshwater lagoons, the dry Pacific desert, the unique Peruvian lomas (areas of fog-watered vegetation in the coastal desert), the dry inter-Andean valleys, and the high-elevation mountains at the base of the mighty, snow-capped Central Andes. We will also visit the endangered Polylepis forest, which holds several sought-after Andean species. Then we will descend to the eastern slope of the Andes, where we will explore some elfin forest like páramos as well as lush cloudforest and upper Amazon forest.

This birding and overlanding trip will take us three weeks in total, and it could provide species such as Inca Tern, Humboldt Penguin, Peruvian Thick-knee, Peruvian Pipit, Thick-billed Miner, Andean Tinamou, Great Inca Finch, White-capped Dipper, Torrent Duck, Andean Condor, Least, Grey-breasted, and Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes, White-bellied Cinclodes, Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, Andean Flicker, Junin Grebe, Black Rail, Andean Avocet, Puna Plover, Black-spectacled Brushfinch, Eye-ringed Thistletail, Fire-throated Metaltail, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Blue-banded Toucanet, Peruvian Wren, and Crimson-mantled Woodpecker. In addition we might find Bay Antpitta, Masked Fruiteater, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, White-eared Solitaire, Cloudforest Screech Owl, Oilbird, Bay Antpitta, Stripe-headed Antpitta, Rufous Antpitta, Rufous-vented Tapaculo, “Milpo Tapaculo” (as yet undescribed), White-cheeked Cotinga, Bay-vented Cotinga, Blue-headed Macaw, and many more.

This trip is particularly good for some special tanagers such as the endemic Golden-backed Mountain Tanager, the endemic Yellow-scarfed Tanager, the endemic Huallaga Tanager, the endemic Brown-flanked Tanager, and other attractive species like Grass-green Tanager, Golden-collared Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, and Yellow-throated Tanager.

During our trip we will look for some of the most incredible high-elevation species of hummingbirds, such as the endemic Black-breasted Hillstar, Olivaceous Thornbill, Coppery Metaltail, Fire-throated Metaltail, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Giant Hummingbird, Oasis Hummingbird, Peruvian Sheartail, Bronze-tailed Comet, and Blue-mantled Thornbill. We invite you to join us to explore this incredible birding route in Peru!

Itinerary (21 days/20 nights)

Day 1. Arrival

You will arrive at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima and be transferred to your hotel. No activities are included on day 1, since most international flights arrive in Lima late in the evening. If you arrive on an early flight you might be charged an extra accommodation fee for an early check-in at the hotel, or we can organize an additional birding morning near the city.

Overnight: Hotel Casa Andina Miraflores, Lima

Day 2. Pucusana beach, Puerto Viejo beach, and transfer to Asia Beach

We will start by visiting the fishing village of Pucusana, 60 kilometers (37 miles) south of the city. Here we will have a chance to see many coastal birds and Humboldt Current specialists like Inca Tern, Belcher Gull, Peruvian Pelican, and Peruvian Booby. We could also see Guanay Cormorant, Red-legged Cormorant, Blackish Oystercatcher, Humboldt Penguin, and the endemic Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes. Later we will drive to Puerto Viejo beach, where we will look for Great Grebe, Andean Coot, Cinnamon Teal, White-cheeked Pintail, Peruvian Meadowlark, Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird, Grassland Yellow Finch, Grey-hooded Gull, American Oystercatcher, Grey Gull, Peruvian Thick-knee, and the endemic Coastal Miner. We will transfer to a modern Asia Beach resort for an overnight

Overnight: Asia Beach

Day 3. Lomas de Asia and transfer to Santa Eulalia

The Lomas de Asia municipal reserve has recently been opened to tourism and is closer to Lima than the well-known Lomas de Lachay National Reserve but protects the same ecosystem of lomas costeras. The lomas exist because of a combination of coastal climate factors and subject to peculiar geography, which produces, in an almost rainless desert, heavy clouds, fog, and mist. Mist rolls in from the nearby Pacific and the moisture condenses when it reaches the Andes. The drizzle, fog, and mist are most common in the humid season, from approximately June to November. The moisture, especially in the humid season, gives life to abundant vegetation and attracts the fauna of the region. The Lomas de Asia are very good for the endemic Thick-billed Miner, Oasis Hummingbird, Peruvian Sheartail, Greyish Miner, Short-tailed Field Tyrant, Collared Warbling Finch, Band-tailed Sierra Finch, Least Seedsnipe, and if we are lucky the endemic but nomadic Raimondi Yellow Finch. After lunch we will drive back to Lima and from there toward the eastern part of the Andes, where we will spend a night in the Santa Eulalia Valley.

Overnight: Santa Eulalia

Day 4. Santa Eulalia road

Today we will have an early start to explore the Santa Eulalia road and the upper canyon. This fantastic location in the highlands of Lima provides a beautiful complex of scenery, surrounded by the Andes and dominated by blue skies. We will drive over two hours up the mountains to reach the habitat of the endemic, shy, rare, and localized Rufous-breasted Warbling Finch. We will focus all our efforts to look for this tricky fellow, but in the same area we could have views of Canyon Canastero and a number of Peruvian endemics such as Black-necked Woodpecker, Bronze-tailed Comet, Rusty-bellied Brushfinch, Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, and Great Inca Finch. Other juicy birds include Giant Hummingbird, Sparkling Violetear, Pied-crested Tit-Tyrant, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Mourning Sierra Finch, Streak-throated Bush Tyrant, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Aplomado Falcon, Torrent Duck, White-capped Dipper, Peruvian Pygmy Owl, Greenish Yellow Finch, and Bare-faced Ground Dove, and if we are lucky we might find the majestic Andean Condor.

Overnight: Santa Eulalia

Day 5. Marcapomacocha and transfer to Concepción

Today we should have great fun exploring Marcapomacocha. This place is located high in the Andes at almost 15000 feet (4500 meters), but with a lot of care and following the respective suggestions we may not have any altitude problem. This birding location is world-famous for holding the legendary Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, and we will also be looking for some Peruvian endemics like Black-breasted Hillstar, Junin Canastero, Dark-winged Miner, and the rare, localized, and endemic White-bellied Cinclodes, listed as Critically Endangered (IUCN). Other birds here include Andean Lapwing, Andean Goose, Crested Duck, Variable Hawk, Puna Ibis, Giant Coot, Puna Teal, White-winged Diuca Finch, Black Siskin, Olivaceous Thornbill, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper, Streak-throated Canastero, Grey-breasted Seedsnipe, and Puna Snipe, and with luck we may find Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe.

Later we will drive to Concepción.

Overnight: Hotel Loma Verde, Concepción

Day 6. Birding the Pariahuanca road

Today we will explore the Pariahuanca road, looking for the endemic Creamy-crested Spinetail and the endemic and range-restricted Black-spectacled Brushfinch. We will have a chance to find the undescribed subspecies of Plain-tailed Wren (known as ‘Mantaro Wren’) and the undescribed subspecies of Streak-throated Thornbird (known as ‘Mantaro Thornbird’). White-winged Black Tyrant is also a possibility here.

Overnight: Hotel Loma Verde, Concepción

Day 7. Satipo road (up to Puente Carrizales)

Today we will have a long drive along the upper parts of the Satipo road to Puente Carrizales, where we will look for the endemic and range-restricted Fiery-throated Metaltail and the endemic Eye-ringed Thistletail. The endemic Tschudi’s Tapaculo and Rufous Antpitta are also possible to see in this area. We will look for the undescribed ‘Milpo Tapaculo’ and the recently described and endemic Junin Tapaculo. After getting these gems we will continue our drive to Satipo

Overnight: Satipo

Day 8. Satipo road (lower and mid elevations) and drive to Oxapampa

Today we will explore the lower parts of the Satipo road, which host several foothill-and-cloudforest species such as Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Grass-green Tanager, Yellow-throated Tanager, Flame-faced Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Metallic-green Tanager, and with luck the uncommon Blue-browed Tanager. We will also look for Blue-banded Toucanet, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Pearled Treerunner, the endemic Peruvian Wren, Slaty Brushfinch, Barred Fruiteater, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Dusky-green Oropendola, and Andean Cock-of-the-rock, and with luck Black-and-chestnut Eagle and Amazonian Umbrellabird. Then we will start the long drive to Oxapampa. We will arrive at our comfortable lodge in Oxapampa before dusk, where our host will be waiting for us with a tasty dinner. If the weather permits and spirits are still high we will use our first chance to look for the poorly known Cloudforest Screech Owl, which is one of the main targets at this lodge.

Overnight: Ulcumano Ecolodge, Oxapampa

Day 9. Full day at Ulcumano Ecolodge

Today we will have a nice day birding around the lodge grounds. Our main targets here are the endemic Bay Antpitta, the endemic Masked Fruiteater, the endemic Rufous-vented Tapaculo, the most wanted Chestnut-crested Cotinga, White-eared Solitaire, and with luck Brown Tinamou. At dusk we will give the Cloudforest Screech Owl another try.

Overnight: Ulcumano Ecolodge

Day 10. Birding around Ulcumano and transfer to La Oroya

We can give the Cloudforest Screech Owl one more try before dawn (in case we need it) and then leave the lodge, exploring some coffee plantations for the endemic Creamy-bellied Antwren. We will have a long drive back to the high Andes to the bustling town of La Oroya. On the way we might find Mountain Caracara and Andean Ibis.

Overnight Hotel El Dorado, La Oroya

Day 11. Lake Junín and transfer to Huánuco

Today we will explore Lake Junín (at 400 meters/13124 feet elevation) in search of the endemic, Critically Endangered (IUCN), and flightless Junin Grebe, one of the scarcest birds in Peru. Other birds at the lake include Andean Avocet, Puna Plover, Chilean Flamingo, Yellow-billed Teal, Puna Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Cinnamon Teal, Andean Duck, Cinereous Harrier, and Andean Gull. One of our major targets is the endemic and distinctive subspecies of Black Rail, which is sometimes treated as a different species called ‘Junin Rail’. In addition, the rocky and dry shores around the lake are good for the endemic Dark-winged Miner and Black-breasted Hillstar, Black Siskin, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, and Andean Flicker. We will drive across the Junín plains also known as the Pampas de Junín and descend to Huánuco. On the way we will have the chance to see Vicuñas.

Overnight: Grand Hotel Huánuco, Huánuco

Day 12. Bosque Unchog

Today we will visit the remote elfin and humid forest of Bosque Unchog in the mountains above Huánuco. This place is known to hold some of the most sought-after endemics in the Andes, such as the incredible Golden-backed Mountain Tanager, Bay-vented Cotinga, Pardusco, Rufous-browed Hemispingus, Brown-flanked Tanager, and Coppery Metaltail. After a full day birding we will return to Huánuco in the afternoon.

Overnight: Grand Hotel Huánuco, Huánuco

Day 13. Bosque Unchog

This will be another full day to explore the Bosque Unchog forest, looking for the species described above, and in addition we will look for Line-fronted Canastero, White-chinned Thistletail, Golden-collared Tanager, the endemic Yellow-scarfed Tanager, White-collared Jay, Red-rumped Bush Tyrant, the endemic Neblina Tapaculo, and Red-crested Cotinga. We will return to Huánuco late in the afternoon.

Overnight: Grand Hotel Huánuco, Huánuco

Day 14. Tingo Maria and the Oilbird cave

Today we will drive toward the eastern lowlands of Tingo Maria. On the way we might stop along the Carpish Mountains in case we see some good mixed flocks, as there were here in the past. But today there is habitat destruction, and access to the park next to the road is difficult. The place is not as attractive as it used to be. On the way to Tingo Maria we might see Crested Oropendola, Russet-backed Oropendola, Magpie Tanager, Blue-headed Parrot, and even Fasciated Tiger Heron and Andean Cock-of-the rock. One of the main attractions of Tingo Maria is the famous Oilbird cave, where we could see many of these strange-looking birds. The Tingo Maria lowlands are also good for Blue-headed Macaw, which will be another of our targets. A set of classic lowland species is always present, such as Great and Lesser Kiskadees, White-eyed Parakeet, Cliff Flycatcher, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Rufous-breasted Hermit, Yellow-throated Toucan, Green-backed Trogon, and the endemic Huallaga Tanager. At night we will try for Tropical Screech Owl and Band-bellied Owl around our lodge.

Overnight: Villa Jennifer Farm & Lodge, Tingo Maria

Day 15. Full day at Villa Jennifer Farm & Lodge

After breakfast we will explore the grounds of Villa Jennifer, where we can see a good set of species such as Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Lineated Woodpecker, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Blue-crowned Trogon, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Plumbeous Kite, Spot-winged Antbird, Grey-crowned Flatbill, Yellow-throated Toucan, Golden-collared Toucanet, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Amazonian Motmot, and Lafresnaye’s Piculet. In addition we could have good views of Gilded Barbet, Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Rufous-fronted Tody-Flycatcher, Limpkin, Capped Heron, Crested Oropendola, Blue-headed and Military Macaws, Reddish Hermit, Golden-tailed Sapphire, Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Masked Tityra, Pale-legged Hornero, Dark-breasted Spinetail, Thrush-like Wren, and Ferruginous Pygmy Owl.

Overnight Villa Jennifer Farm & Lodge, Tingo Maria

Day 16. Transfer to Huánuco 

After a last morning birding around Tingo Maria we will have an easy transfer back to Huánuco.

Overnight: Grand Hotel Huánuco, Huánuco

Day 17. Drive to Carhuaz

Today we will have a long drive via the La Union mountain pass to Huaraz in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. On the way we will look for classic Andean species like Andean Lapwing, Andean Flicker, Andean Negrito, Bright-rumped Yellow Finch, Peruvian Sierra Finch, Puna Ibis, Andean Ibis, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, and Grey-breasted Seedsnipe.

Overnight: Hotel El Abuelo, Carhuaz

Days 18 – 19. Huascarán National Park

We will have two full days at Huascarán National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which comprises the majority of the Cordillera Blanca, the world’s highest tropical mountain range. Here we will look for the great set of species which occurs in the Polylepis forest between the Llanganuco Lakes, including Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, the spectacular, endemic White-cheeked Cotinga, the endemic Ancash Tapaculo, the sought-after Giant Conebill, and Tit-like Dacnis. In addition we may find the endemic Plain-tailed Warbling Finch, the endemic Striated Earthcreeper, the endemic Rufous-eared Brushfinch, and Stripe-headed Antpitta.

Overnight: Hotel El Abuelo, Carhuaz

Day 20. Birding the Huaylas road and the Pueblo Libre

On the last birding day of the tour we will spend the morning exploring the Huaylas road, looking for the endemic Rufous-backed Inca Finch, and the dry slopes of the Pueblo Libre area for the endemic Pale-tailed Canastero. Later we will transfer to Huaraz, where we will have enough time to rest well and pack in our comfortable hotel and of course enjoy a tasty dinner to celebrate a great trip.

Overnight: Andino Club Hotel, Huaraz

Day 21. Flight to Lima and connect with international flights

You will be transferred to the Huaraz airport to connect with an early flight to Lima. At Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport you will connect with your international flights.

Please note that the itinerary cannot be guaranteed as it is only a rough guide and can be changed (usually slightly) due to factors such as availability of accommodation, updated information on the state of accommodation, roads, or birding sites, the discretion of the guides and other factors. In addition, we sometimes have to use a different international guide from the one advertised due to tour scheduling.

Birding Peru for the first time in July 2012 with Eduardo, a professional and very knowledgeable local Peru guide, ensured a smooth, safe and hassle-free trip filled with south Peruvian endemics such as Junin Canastero, White-bellied Cinclodes, Great Inca-Finch and Inca Wren. Eduardo, with the assistance of Raul, were quick to spot birds and ensured that all in the group got onto the birds as fast as possible. While birding, Eduardo also enlightened and amused us with his vast knowledge of birds and other fauna of the area. At the end of each day Eduardo assisted the group to complete a list of birds seen and heard for the day. A briefing each evening prepared participants on what to expect the next day. The accommodation was clean and safe, even in off-the-beaten-track areas. I can highly recommend the Birding Ecotours bird guide in Peru.

Lisl van Deventer — Pretoria, South Africa

This is a sample trip report. Please email us (info@birdingecotours.com) for more trip reports from this destination.