Indonesia: West Papua – Birds-of-paradise and Endemics of the Arfaks and Waigeo

Indonesia: West Papua – Birds-of-paradise and Endemics of the Arfaks and Waigeo
August 2023

New Guinea is a geographic rather than political term that refers to the main island in the region. The western half of the island of New Guinea comprises the Indonesian provinces of West Papua (Papua Barat) and Papua, collectively once called West Irian or Irian Jaya; the eastern half of the main island of New Guinea comprises the country of Papua New Guinea. We will be based in West Papua for this exhilarating, small-group birding adventure. Aside from the large landmass of New Guinea, the New Guinea region includes numerous small islands (some part of Indonesia and others part of Papua New Guinea), and we will visit one of these areas: Waigeo, part of the Raja Ampat Archipelago in West Papua (also known as the Northwestern Islands).

Approximately 680 bird species have been recorded from West Papua, from slightly more than 700 for the whole New Guinea region. Some 550 species are considered breeding residents, with 279 New Guinea endemics (found in Indonesia and/or Papua New Guinea) and at least an additional 42 endemics found only in West Papua. There are also over 115 Palearctic and Australian migrant species and a range of seabirds which spend some of their time in West Papua.

This tour will begin in the town of Manokwari, situated on the north-eastern tip of West Papua’s Bird’s Head (or Vogelkop) Peninsula where we could get our tour started with the gorgeous Lesser Bird-of-paradise, this area is usually great for Blyth’s Hornbill and numerous fruit doves. We will travel to the nearby Arfak Mountains, where we will search for a fabulous series of birds, renowned in birders’ circles as the “Vogelkop Endemics”, such as Western Parotia, Arfak Astrapia, Crescent-caped Lophorina (formerly part of the Superb Bird-of-paradise complex), Long-tailed Paradigalla, Arfak Catbird, Vogelkop Melidectes, and Vogelkop Bowerbird.

Western Parotia, yet another great bird-of-paradise. Watching these birds doing their ballet dancing display is incredibly impressive.

We can also find more widespread birds-of-paradise (BoPs) here too, such as Black Sicklebill, Black-billed Sicklebill, Magnificent Bird-of-paradise, Trumpet Manucode, and Crinkle-collared Manucode.

There are numerous other simply breathtaking and highly sought-after birds possible in the Arfak mountains and just a few of these include Spotted Jewel-babbler, Blue Jewel-babbler, Masked Bowerbird, Pesquet’s (New Guinea Vulturine) Parrot, Moluccan King Parrot, Modest Tiger Parrot, White-striped Forest Rail, Feline Owlet-nightjar, Mountain Owlet-nightjar, Papuan Boobook, Tit Berrypecker, Mottled Berryhunter (a monotypic family), Papuan Treecreeper, Papuan Logrunner, Grey-banded Mannikin, Papuan Grassbird, Drongo Fantail, Goldenface, and Lesser Melampitta.

The second leg of our tour takes us to Sorong, on the opposite side of the Bird’s Head Peninsula where we might find King Bird-of-paradise, Magnificent Riflebird, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, and Blue-black Kingfisher, and then to one of the Raja Ampat Islands, Waigeo. Here we will search for endemic Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise, Red Bird-of-paradise, and Glossy-mantled Manucode. Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise is often considered one of the best-looking birds on the planet, and so we will look forward to making our own judgments on this. Again, there are numerous other species high on our ‘wanted’ list, including Western Crowned Pigeon (a seriously impressive bird that will rival the birds-of-paradise for ‘bird of the trip’ if we find them), plus the likes of Hook-billed Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Papuan Dwarf Kingfisher, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Beach Kingfisher, Papuan Hawk-Owl, Marbled Frogmouth, Papuan Frogmouth, Palm Cockatoo, Eclectus Parrot, Great-billed Parrot, Raja Ampat Pitohui, Hooded Pitta, Papuan Pitta, and Brown-headed Crow.

A huge bird, Western Crowned Pigeon is sure to impress on Waigeo.

Immediately prior to this West Papua tour, you could join our Indonesia: Sulawesi and Halmahera – Spectacular Endemic Birding tour looking for (Wallace’s) Standardwing and (Halmahera) Paradise-crow (these are two endemic birds-of-paradise), plus Maleo, Ivory-breasted Pitta, North Moluccan Pitta, Sulawesi Pitta, Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Green-backed Kingfisher, Lilac Kingfisher, Scaly-breasted Kingfisher (with over 15 kingfisher species actually possible on this tour!), Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, Knobbed Hornbill, Hylocitrea (a monotypic family), Malia, Geomalia, and a multitude of more, exciting endemics.

Furthermore, you could follow this tour with our New Britain and with our Papua New Guinea: Birding Attenborough’s Paradise tour where we will see numerous birds-of-paradise and other exceptional birds, most different to what will be seen on the West Papua tour, such as Blue Bird-of-paradise, Raggiana Bird-of-paradise, King of Saxony Bird-of-paradise, Ribbon-tailed Astrapia, and Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia to name a few of the stunners, plus Blue-capped Ifrit and Wattled Ploughbill (two more monotypic families), plus other gorgeous endemics!

Additionally, we also offer an extension to the endemic-rich, amazing satellite islands of Biak, Numfor, and Kofiau where we look for island endemics such as Biak Paradise Kingfisher, Numfor Paradise Kingfisher, Kofiau Paradise Kingfisher and many more key, range-restricted species (please email us or fill out the contact form here to request information).

 Itinerary (12 days/11 nights)

Day 1. Arrival in Manokwari

Arrival at Rendani Airport in Manokwari during the day, where you will be met and taken to your nearby hotel for the remainder of the day at leisure. We will meet for a group evening meal together as the anticipation builds for the exciting birds and adventure awaiting us.

Overnight: Manokwari

Day 2. Birding near Manokwari, travel to and birding in the Arfak Mountains

We will get the tour under way with some great birds near Manokwari, such as Pacific Baza, Claret-breasted Fruit Dove, White-bibbed Fruit Dove, Pinon’s Imperial Pigeon, Collared Imperial Pigeon, Zoe’s Imperial Pigeon, Papuan Mountain Pigeon, Blyth’s Hornbill, Eclectus Parrot, Black-capped Lory, Lowland Peltops, and Hooded Butcherbird. We may even find our first bird-of-paradise of the trip, the beautiful Lesser Bird-of-paradise.

Around mid-morning we will leave the city and travel into the Arfak Mountains, our base for the next four days. On the lower slopes of the mountain we might again have a chance to spot Lesser Bird-of-paradise and even Trumpet Manucode, a rather unusual crow-like bird-of-paradise (both of these sometimes get up to the area of our accommodation). What the manucodes lack in looks, they make up with their voices. The afternoon will be spent birding the forest near our accommodation, where we may see some of the birds given for days 3 to 5.

Overnight: Arfak Mountains (mid-elevation)

There is a good chance that Lesser Bird-of-paradise will be the first BoP of the tour.

Days 3 – 5. Birding in the Arfak Mountains

We have three full days (in addition to the afternoon of day 2 and the morning of day 6) to explore what is arguably the premier birding region in West Papua, the Arfak Mountains. This area supports several endemic bird species and a number of other species with restricted ranges, including several stunning birds-of-paradise.

Over the course of our stay on the mountain we will focus our attention on the birds-of-paradise and bird our way around them. This tactic works really well and gives us great opportunities for viewing the birds-of-paradise on their lek sites and also picking up numerous other exciting birds along the way. We will spend a few nights in a basic yet comfortable ‘village’ at the mid-elevation on the mountain, after which we will head up (on foot) to the high-elevation zone for a night in a basic camp (see notes on accommodation at the end of the itinerary). Those not wishing to make the hike will be able to stay in the village and will be suitably looked-after by our excellent support staff with further birding opportunities in that zone! The exact day-to-day routine over these few days will be dictated by the location of the birds-of-paradise lek sites, but a bird-filled time is to be expected, the birding here is seriously exciting.

Around our village base in the mid-elevation zone we will look for Magnificent Bird-of-paradise which may be seen on his court, displaying, in sequence his iridescent, carmine back, dark-green breast shield, and sulfur-yellow cape before jerkily dancing up and down a vertical sapling, while quivering his cocked, sickle-shaped central tail feathers.

Magnificent Bird-of-paradise may be seen in the Arfak Mountains.

Also, around our village we will look for the additional exciting bird-of-paradise trio of Western Parotia, Black-billed Sicklebill, and Crescent-caped Lophorina. The male of the Western Parotia performs a bizarre side-step dance on the floor of their display courts, while their flank plumes are spread to form a circular skirt, with their six, wiry, antenna-like nape feathers directed forward. Black-billed Sicklebill is also found in this zone; quite a large bird, they spend a lot of time in the mid-canopy, but drop down to exposed display perches early in the morning when we have a good chance to view them well. One of the most-interesting though, is the Crescent-caped Lophorina (formerly part of the Superb Bird-of-paradise complex). This bird is mesmerizing when displaying and we will hope for a repeat performance witnessed on previous tours. The male’s fixed, delta-shaped, iridescent, blue-green breast-shield (with elongated side feathers making it protrude way beyond its chest) and its expandable hind neck cape combine to give this bird a really strange look, but one you (or the female birds) can’t take your eyes off!

Of all the endemic birds of the regions, one of the most famous ones (though not the most beautiful!) must be Vogelkop Bowerbird – the world’s greatest avian architect. Males of this amazing species build a roofed house-like maypole (tented) bower construction at the base of a tree sapling, inside and in front of which they place colorful berries, flowers, and insect parts to attract females, a true sight to behold for the female, and us!

The impressive bower of the Vogelkop Bowerbird is something pretty special, even if the bird is rather drab – what it lacks in good looks it certainly makes up for in architectural ability!

Other potential interesting birds of this area may include Spotted Jewel-babbler, White-striped Forest Rail, Pesquet’s (New Guinea Vulturine) Parrot, Arfak Catbird, Arfak Honeyeater, Vogelkop Melidectes, Vogelkop Scrubwren, Vogelkop Whistler, Papuan Eagle, Black-mantled Goshawk, Masked Bowerbird (the colors on this one need to be seen to be believed!), Moluccan King Parrot, Red-breasted Pygmy Parrot, Black-capped Lory, Papuan Lorikeet, Ivory-billed Coucal, White-crowned Cuckoo, Dwarf Koel, Drongo Fantail, Papuan Mountain Pigeon, White-bibbed (Mountain) Fruit Dove, Red-collared Myzomela, Papuan Black Myzomela, Rufous-sided Honeyeater, Northern Variable Pitohui, Hooded Pitohui, White-shouldered Fairywren, Papuan Parrotfinch, Wattled Brushturkey, Sclater’s Whistler, Regent Whistler, Rufous-naped Bellbird (formerly called Rufous-naped Whistler but moved from that family to a new family called Australo-Papuan bellbirds), Goldenface, Mountain Peltops, Black-breasted Boatbill, Papuan Treecreeper, Papuan Sittella, Green-backed Robin, Black-throated Robin, Slaty Robin, Garnet Robin, Lesser Ground Robin, and, if we are lucky, Feline Owlet-nightjar or Mountain Owlet-nightjar.

The colors on this Masked Bowerbird really need to be seen to be believed, this is one insanely colorful bird! Its bower is nowhere near as impressive as the Vogelkop Bowerbird (above), but when it looks like this, it probably doesn’t matter to the female!

Depending on timing and road conditions, we might also be able to take our 4×4 vehicles to an open area home to the extremely range-restricted endemic Grey-banded Mannikin, a beautiful bird. Other birds possible in this area include Torrent-lark, Papuan Grassbird, Great Woodswallow, Pale-vented Bush-hen, and Grey Wagtail.

Our time in the high-elevation zone (almost 6,550 feet/2,000 meters) will focus on a range of different species, including three new birds-of-paradise, two of which are endemic, the little-known Arfak Astrapia and Long-tailed Paradigalla (the latter rediscovered as recently as 1989!), as well as the more widespread Black Sicklebill, with its magnificent tail, which can be 31 inches (80 centimeters) long and its ability to turn itself into assorted shapes; the cobra move is particularly noteworthy! All three of these birds are incredibly unique and well worth the hike!

Our time will be focused on finding the above three great birds-of-paradise but we will also be in the zone for plenty of other exciting birds and we will hope to also see the likes of Lesser Melampitta, Brehm’s Tiger Parrot, Modest Tiger Parrot, Bronze Ground Dove, Crested Berrypecker, Orange-crowned Fairywren, Obscure Berrypecker, Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Tit Berrypecker, Mottled Berryhunter (a monotypic family endemic to New Guinea), Papuan Logrunner, Ashy Robin, Smoky Robin, Black-throated Robin, Canary Flyrobin, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, Arfak Honeyeater, Papuan Treecreeper, Papuan Parrotfinch, Mountain Mouse-warbler, Red-collared Myzomela, Vogelkop Owlet-nightjar, and Papuan Boobook, among, as always, so many others.

Overnight: Arfak Mountains (two nights mid-elevation and one night high-elevation)

Brehm’s Tiger Parrot is a possibility in the higher elevations of the Arfaks (photo Matt Prophet).

Day 6: Arfak Mountains to Manokwari

We will have a final morning birding in the Arfak Mountains mopping up species mentioned above, or maybe taking one last look at our favorite birds-of-paradise of this area for the final time. After our final lunch in the village we will bid a fond farewell to our hosts and we will then descend off the mountain, before returning back to Manokwari for a welcome night in our comfortable hotel.

Overnight: Manokwari

Day 7. Manokwati to Sorong

We will take a short flight in the morning between Manokwari and Sorong where we will check into our very comfortable hotel for the night. In the afternoon after the heat of the day wanes we will venture into the mangroves where we hope to find Blue-black Kingfisher, Azure Kingfisher, Little Kingfisher, Barred Rail, Black Bittern, Collared Imperial Pigeon, Little Bronze Cuckoo, Moustached Treeswift, Orange-fronted Fruit Dove, and Orange-breasted Fig Parrot.

Overnight: Sorong

Day 8. Sorong to Waigeo

An early start today will see us birding in some forest near Sorong where we could extend our bird-of-paradise list in the form of the raucous Magnificent Riflebird and the bizarre, delightful, and rather small King Bird-of-paradise. There are many other incredible birds possible here too, and one of the most highly sought-after of these is Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher which we will look for today. Other quality birds here include Papuan Pitta, Hooded Pitta, Blyth’s Hornbill, Palm Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Red-cheeked Parrot, Coconut Lorikeet, Black Lory, Moluccan King Parrot, Large Fig Parrot, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Blue-black Kingfisher, Red-billed Brushturkey, Golden Cuckooshrike, Brown Oriole, Dwarf Fruit Dove, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Superb Fruit Dove, Orange-bellied Fruit Dove, Wompoo Fruit Dove, Frilled Monarch, Rusty Pitohui, Lowland Peltops, and Long-tailed Honey Buzzard. Plus, Lesser Bird-of-paradise is also present in this area.

King Bird-of-paradise is a beautiful BoP and we will hope for some great views at their lek site.

After lunch and checking out of our hotel, we will transfer by ferry from Sorong to Waigeo Island across the Indonesian Dampier Strait (sometimes also known as Augusta’s Strait). During the two-to-three-hour ferry ride we will look out for pelagic species like Pomarine Jaeger, Lesser Frigatebird, Great Frigatebird, Brown Booby, Bulwer’s Petrel, Streaked Shearwater, Wedge-tailed Shearwater, Matsudaira’s Storm Petrel, Black Noddy, Common Tern, Great Crested Tern, Black-naped Tern, and Bridled Tern. On arrival at Waigeo Island we will likely see White-breasted Woodswallow and Singing Starling in the harbor. We will then drive the short distance to our picturesque and secluded beachside dive resort where we will check in for the next few nights. As we take the short ride between the harbor and our resort, we might spot Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot, Pacific Baza, Claret-breasted Fruit Dove, Black Sunbird, Oriental Dollarbird, New Guinea Friarbird, Moluccan Starling, and Rufous-bellied Kookaburra along the way. The birding in Waigeo is great!

Overnight: Waigeo Island

Days 9 – 10. Birding on and around Waigeo Island

Waigeo, where we will be based for the next two days, is the largest island in the Raja Ampat Archipelago, comprising over 1,500 small islands, cays, and shoals and located off the northwest tip of the Bird’s Head Peninsula. These islands are home to two endemic birds-of-paradise, the exquisite Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise with its bright, cerulean-blue, bare crown, crisscrossed by fine black lines (considered by many as the best-looking bird on the planet – see the front cover of this itinerary for an idea of how stunning this bird is) and the crimson-plumed rather slick-looking Red Bird-of-paradise. We will look for both of these species while on Waigeo.

Endemic to Waigeo, Red Bird-of-paradise is yet another interesting BoP with its wire-like tail projections. We will visit a lek site of this bird while on the island.

Waigeo Brushturkey (a stunning bird too) was recently rediscovered, but this island endemic is a very tough bird and is unlikely to be found on this tour – if you’d like to try for this very difficult range-restricted species please talk to us about a possible expedition extension to look specifically for it after the tour).

Other birding highlights on these islands include Hook-billed Kingfisher, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Western Crowned Pigeon (an absolutely ginormous bird), Pheasant Pigeon, Palm Cockatoo, and Great-billed Parrot. We will also hope to get good views of yet another bird-of-paradise while in this region – Glossy-mantled Manucode. These birds have elongated tracheas which serve to magnify their voice!

We see some amazing kingfishers on this tour and Common Paradise Kingfisher is one beautiful example of the family.

During our time on Waigeo we also hope to encounter, among a multitude of others, Papuan Pitta, Hooded Pitta, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Papuan Dwarf Kingfisher, Blyth’s Hornbill, New Guinea Friarbird, Southern Variable Pitohui, Raja Ampat Pitohui, Hooded Butcherbird, Black Butcherbird, Marbled Frogmouth, Papuan Frogmouth (often right outside the resort dining room at night!), Papuan Boobook, Dusky Megapode, Pygmy Eagle, Gurney’s Eagle, Red-necked Crake, New Guinea Bronzewing, Moustached Treeswift, Moluccan King Parrot, Brown-headed Crow, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, Green-backed Honeyeater, Long-billed Honeyeater, Black-sided Robin, Golden Monarch, Spot-winged Monarch, Frilled Monarch, Beautiful Fruit Dove, Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon, and Stephan’s Emerald Dove.

We will have early-morning and late-afternoon birding sessions in the forest and the late-morning and early-afternoon will be at your leisure around the resort where you can sit and enjoy the view, maybe even with Palm Cockatoos feeding above your heads! Or you can take some time to snorkel in the reef right outside our rooms; the coral reef and various fish and sea-life present here is remarkable and well worth an underwater experience.

One of our afternoons while here, we will take a boat into Kabui Bay to look for Spice Imperial Pigeon, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Metallic Pigeon, White-bibbed Fruit Dove, Beach Kingfisher, Violet-necked Lory, Great-billed Heron, Dusky Megapode, Raja Shelduck, Island Monarch, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Varied Honeyeater, Arafura Fantail, Moluccan Starling, and White-bellied Sea Eagle, ending with sunset and watching the huge Great-billed Parrots coming in to roost.

Overnight: Waigeo Island

The rather large Palm Cockatoo can often be found around our accommodation.

Day 11. Birding on Waigeo and travel to Sorong

We will have a final morning on Waigeo, where we will search for more of the species mentioned above, maybe again enjoying the otherworldly Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise. We will take the afternoon ferry back to Sorong, where we will enjoy a farewell dinner, a good rest, and the difficult task of deciding on a ‘bird of the trip’, not an easy choice!

Overnight: Sorong

Day 12. Departure from Sorong

Time at leisure and departure from Sorong.

Overnight: Not included

Please note that the itinerary cannot be guaranteed as it is only a rough guide and can be changed (usually only slightly) due to factors such as availability of accommodation, updated information on the state of accommodation, weather, roads, birding sites, the discretion of the local guides, or other factors.

West Papua  –  Birds-Of-Paradise and Endemics of the Arfaks and Waigeo Trip Report, August 2022

03 – 14 AUGUST 2022

By Andy Walker 

Overview

This Indonesian bird tour visited the West Papua province and started in Manokwari on the 3^rd of August 2022 and finished in Sorong on the 14^th of August 2022. Our birding was focused on the Arfak Mountains and the island of Waigeo, both areas are world renowned for their spectacular birds-of-paradise and endemic birds, and our attention was firmly set on finding as many of these jewels as possible. Weather conditions throughout the tour (unseasonal rain, the result of La Niña) made going tough and a bit muddy at times, but we still had a good haul of quality birds.

We recorded 235 species on the tour (seven of these heard only), trip lists follow the report. The list of highlights was very long and included 14 birds-of-paradise seen, these were: Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise, Magnificent Bird-of-paradise, Red Bird-of-paradise, King Bird-of-paradise, Twelve-wired Bird-of-paradise, Western Parotia, Crescent-caped Lophorina, Black Sicklebill, Black-billed Sicklebill, Magnificent Riflebird, Long-tailed Paradigalla, Arfak Astrapia, Crinkle-collared Manucode, and Glossy-mantled Manucode.

Other exciting highlights included Feline Owlet-nightjar, Mountain Owlet-nightjar, Dusky Megapode, Western Crowned Pigeon, Pheasant Pigeon, Spice Imperial Pigeon, Ornate Fruit Dove, Great Cuckoo-Dove, Blyth’s Hornbill, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Masked Bowerbird, Spotted Jewel-babbler, Palm Cockatoo, Eclectus Parrot, Papuan Lorikeet, Pygmy Lorikeet, Moluccan King Parrot, Red-breasted Pygmy Parrot, Modest Tiger Parrot, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Beach Kingfisher, Papuan Dwarf Kingfisher, Papuan Pitta, Rufous-naped Bellbird, Mottled Berryhunter (monotypic family), Arfak Catbird, Raja Ampat Pitohui, Vogelkop Melidectes, Papuan Sittella, Moustached Treeswift, Golden Myna, and Brown-headed Crow.

Detailed Report

Day 1, 3^rd August 2022. Arrival in Manokwari, West Papua, Indonesia

An arrival day in Manokwari, West Papua. By late afternoon the whole group had arrived. We enjoyed our welcome dinner together, full of excitement at what was waiting for us.

Day 2, 4^th August 2022. Birding Manokwari and travel to the Arfak Mountains

We started the tour off with some birding near Manokwari, but had to deal with some pretty poor weather. Rain and fog made the going rather tough, which was frustrating. We did catch a couple of short breaks in the weather, and this resulted in a few good birds, such as (Western) Ornate Fruit Dove, Claret-breasted Fruit Dove, Pinon’s Imperial Pigeon, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Blyth’s Hornbill, Boyer’s Cuckooshrike, Black-browed Triller, New Guinea Friarbird, Black Sunbird, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, and Northern Variable Pitohui (these were mainly calling from dense thickets but with a couple of brief views for some).

After a bit of a break in the late morning with some really heavy rain, we headed up into the Arfak Mountains. Further rain showers were the order of the afternoon, but we did fit in a short birding session near to our overnight destination, with Magnificent Bird-of-paradise, Crinkle-collared Manucode, and Feline Owlet-nightjar being the pick of the sightings (and not a bad selection to boot!). After our birding we settled into our mountainside accommodation for the next few nights.

Day 3, 5^th August 2022. Birding the Arfak Mountains

Our first full day of birding in the Arfak Mountains started out with beautiful blue skies and we were very grateful for that after the previous day (even more so after the afternoon birding session today too!). Our first stakeout was that of Western Parotia, and after a short wait a male bird dropped in and checked out his display area, demonstrating his amazing “antenna”! After a quick inspection of his arena, he jumped into the trees where he sat preening for a while, a gorgeous bird. Satisfied with our views, we continued to a different stakeout where we waited for a while before first a female, then a male Crescent-caped Lophorina (formerly called Superb Bird-of-paradise and also known as Vogelkop Lophorina) came in to view, another spectacular bird that showed nicely. Here too we had further views of feeding female and young male Western Parotias.

After enjoying the birds-of-paradise we commenced our walk out of the forest, noting Sclater’s Whislter, Vogelkop Whistler, Capped White-eye, Arfak Honeyeater, Friendly Fantail, Black Fantail, Slaty Robin, Rusty Mouse-warbler, Large Scrubwren, and Vogelkop Scrubwren. As we reached the road the clouds descended and stayed like that (with some rain) for most of the rest of the day.

In the afternoon we split the group into those who wanted further/better views of Magnificent Bird-of-paradise (which showed very well during a dry spell judging by the photos) and the rest of the group who took a walk through the cloud seeing the architectural genius of the incredible Vogelkop Bowerbird, along with sightings of Mountain Owlet-nightjar, Papuan Lorikeet, and Moluccan King Parrot. Unfortunately, Spotted Jewel-babbler, like several other species, remained heard only as visibility was pretty terrible. One of the final highlights of the afternoon was watching a pair of the impossibly small, Red-breasted Pygmy Parrots at their nest.

Day 4, 6^th August 2022. Birding the Arfak Mountains

Some of the group commenced the big hike up into the higher zone of the Arfak Mountains. We took the morning to get to our very basic overnight campsite, birding along the way, with some of the top targets seen including Long-tailed Paradigalla (a somewhat mysterious bird-of-paradise), a pair of Mottled Berryhunters (a monotypic family), Modest Tiger Parrot, Plum-faced Lorikeet, Yellow-billed Lorikeet, Fairy Lorikeet, Papuan Lorikeet, White-bibbed (Mountain) Fruit Dove, Crimson-collared Myzomela (in abundance), Mountain Myzomela, and a cute roosting Mountain Owlet-nightjar, many of these at or around a couple of action-packed heavily flowering and fruiting trees.

In the afternoon, high up on the mountain above “Camp David”, the group spent some time looking for, then finding, a stunning and vocal male Black Sicklebill – what a seriously impressive sight (and sound!). We also found multiple pretty Tit Berrypeckers, along with Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Regent Whistler, Vogelkop Whistler, Smoky Robin, Ashy Robin, Dimorphic Fantail, Papuan Sittella, Rufous-sided Honeyeater, Marbled Honeyeater, and Rufous-naped Bellbird. The hike was definitely worth the effort, with a lot of quality birds in a gorgeous setting.

Those staying at the middle elevations enjoyed plenty of good birds too, with their highlights including Masked Bowerbird, Red Myzomela, Crescent-caped Lophorina, Magnificent Bird-of-paradise, Pesquet’s Parrot, Moluccan King Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Blue-collared Parrot, Black-capped Lory, Drongo Fantail, Arfak Catbird, Wallace’s Fairywren, and nesting Mountain Peltops. They also heard two new birds-of-paradise too, Magnificent Riflebird and Lesser Bird-of-paradise, but these were too far away for them to attempt to see at this time.

Day 5, 7^th August 2022. Birding the Arfak Mountains

The group birding in the middle elevations headed into a blind (hide) and got to spend some time in the morning watching a displaying male Western Parotia – an amazing sight judging by their videos of this. In the afternoon, they visited a different blind and saw a female Black Scythebill.

Those of us camping in the high elevation zone headed out early into the beautiful mossy forest, where we searched for, then found a feeding male Arfak Astrapia. This large bird-of-paradise gave some good views and was the last of our major bird-of-paradise targets for this overnight trip. Other good birds seen on the mountain and on the trek down, included (Western) Ornate Fruit Dove, White-bibbed (Mountain) Fruit Dove, Papuan Mountain Pigeon, Modest Tiger Parrot, Pygmy Lorikeet, Papuan Lorikeet, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, Vogelkop Melidectes, Long-tailed Paradigalla, and Crescent-caped Lophorina.

Day 6, 8^th August 2022. Birding the Arfak Mountains and travel to Manokwari

During our final morning in the Arfak Mountains, we visited a couple of blinds to enjoy, for one last time, a selection of birds-of-paradise and other goodies.

Some of the group headed down to the Western Parotia blind and, after seeing a couple of Spotted Jewel-babblers and Green-backed Robin, enjoyed watching the extraordinary display from the parotia (see trip report front cover photo). The parotia was amazingly flushed from his dancing by a Pheasant Pigeon that walked straight through the display area! A visit to the Vogelkop Bowerbird bower was also rewarding, with further good looks at this architectural marvel. Around the accommodation, Black-billed Sicklebill and Crescent-caped Lophorina were also noted, as was a low-flying Long-tailed Honey Buzzard that set pulses racing.

Reluctantly, we said goodbye to our village team after a truly enjoyable stay. They really went out of their way to help us, as usual, by building trails and blinds (hides), cooking good food, helping carry gear, guide us through the forest, help us on the tougher trails, and generally look after us throughout our stay.

Driving down the mountain back to Manokwari a couple of stops yielded Masked Bowerbird, Red Myzomela, White-shouldered Fairywren, Mountain Peltops, and several other birds. Both Magnificent Riflebird and Lesser Bird-of-paradise were heard, but the cloud dropped in, and rain shortly thereafter followed, so we were not able to see them.

Day 7, 9^th August 2022. Manokwari to Sorong, birding the mangroves near Sorong

In the morning we took the short flight from Manokwari to Sorong and had some free time to rest during the hot part of the day. In the afternoon we visited some nearby mangroves where we found some gorgeous birds, including Emperor Fairywren, Orange-fronted Fruit Dove, Collared Imperial Pigeon, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Oriental Dollarbird, Variable Goshawk, Rainbow Bee-eater, and Orange-breasted Fig Parrot. Unfortunately, Blue-black Kingfisher remained a “heard only” bird. Several other less colorful birds were also seen, but also appreciated, such as White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Brown-backed Honeyeater, Large-billed Gerygone, and our first Willie Wagtails of the trip. In the damp areas we found Intermediate Egret, Eastern Cattle Egret, Cinnamon Bittern, and Barred Rail.

Day 8, 10^th August 2022. Birding near Malagufuk (Klassow Valley) and travel to Waigeo

A really enjoyable morning was spent birding in the Malagufuk area and was definitely worth the early start from Sorong. As dawn approached, we had Papuan Hawk-Owl near our picnic breakfast site and then followed up with a range of parrots as they woke up, and these included Moluccan King Parrot, Black Lory, Black-capped Lory, Orange-crowned Hanging Parrot, Coconut Lorikeet, Large Fig Parrot, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, and the spectacular (and huge) Palm Cockatoo. We headed inside the forest and over the course of a few hours found several amazing birds, including King Bird-of-paradise, Twelve-wired Bird-of-paradise, Magnificent Riflebird, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, Papuan Dwarf Kingfisher, Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrot, Golden Myna, Wompoo Fruit Dove, (Eastern) Superb Fruit Dove, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Dwarf Fruit Dove, Orange-bellied Fruit Dove, Black-sided Robin, (Papuan) Spangled Drongo, Dwarf Koel, Brown Oriole, Yellow-bellied Longbill, and Grey-headed Goshawk. We spent quite a bit of time watching a fruiting tree which was really rewarding, with many of the above species (and lots more) visiting it.

After a great morning we very reluctantly left the site to get back to Sorong in time to catch the boat to Waigeo, part of the Raja Ampat Islands. The short drive to our dive resort on Waigeo took longer than usual because we stopped for some good birds, these included yet another bird-of-paradise (our fourth species for the day), Glossy-mantled Manucode, along with Moustached Treeswift (very popular), Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot, Hooded Butcherbird, Brown-headed Crow, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Pacific Golden Plover, and Grey-tailed Tattler. The end of the day saw us watching a pair of Papuan Frogmouths outside our dive resort villas!

Day 9, 11^th August 2022. Birding on Waigeo Island

Our first target for the morning was a bird often touted as one of the best-looking birds in the world. We got into position in a blind (hide) in the forest and waited…. After about half an hour a stunning male Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise flew in and started tidying up his lek site. The visit was brief but memorable. We continued to wait to see what would happen, and over the next hour a female came in and the male returned several times, allowing excellent close views (see photo in trip report introduction). There was also plenty of activity from other birds during the morning, including Western Crowned Pigeon seen by some of the group, along with Glossy-mantled Manucode, Common Paradise Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Dusky Megapode, Blyth’s Hornbill, Raja Ampat Pitohui, Spot-winged Monarch, Frilled Monarch, Long-tailed Honey Buzzard, Brown-headed Crow, and Hooded Butcherbird.

After our enjoyable morning birding session, we took a speedboat to a nearby smaller island, where we had lunch, a swim in a beautiful reef (one with the highest diversity on the planet), and some excellent birds. Here, Glossy-mantled Manucode and Common Paradise Kingfisher gave excellent views, our best yet. We also saw Spice Imperial Pigeon, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Violet-necked Lory, Shining Flycatcher, and Moluccan Starling. The boat ride to and from the island gave us views of Greater Crested Tern, Common Tern, Bridled Tern, Lesser Frigatebird, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Eastern Osprey, Pacific Reef Heron, and Great-billed Heron.

We spent some time in the late afternoon with some relaxed birding at our dive resort, noting Beach Kingfisher, Glossy-mantled Manucode, Palm Cockatoo, Great-billed Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Spice Imperial Pigeon, Pinon’s Imperial Pigeon, Pied Imperial Pigeon, New Guinea Friarbird, Brown Oriole, and Lesser Frigatebird, as well as a glorious rainbow and sunset.

Day 10, 12^th August 2022. Birding on Waigeo Island

The main target of the day was our fourteenth and final possible bird-of-paradise for the trip. We set off from our accommodation in the dark and hiked up a nearby hill and got into position and waited for the stunning Red Bird-of-paradise to come and visit their lek. We didn’t have to wait long, and they didn’t disappoint, as we enjoyed watching several birds attending the lek, including an adult male with long plumes.

While waiting for, and while watching the Red Bird-of-paradise, we also saw Great Cuckoo-Dove, Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove, Raja Ampat Pitohui, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, (Papuan) Spangled Drongo, and the humongous Blyth’s Hornbill. As we walked off the hill we noted Yellow-faced Myna, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra (giving an impressive duet), Shining Flycatcher, and Glossy-mantled Manucode.

For the rest of the morning we birded in some nearby forest, seeing Waigeo Cuscus, Papuan Pitta, Spot-winged Monarch, Northern Fantail, Dusky Megapode, Stephan’s Emerald Dove, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Ruby-throated Myzomela, (Papuan) Spangled Drongo, Yellow-bellied Longbill, and Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise. Lunch relaxing around the resort resulted in further great looks at Palm Cockatoo, Papuan Frogmouth, and Brown Oriole.

During the afternoon we went birding along the roads and coast near our accommodation, getting repeat views of some of the gorgeous birds we’d already seen, but were happy to look at again, such as Eclectus Parrot, Claret-breasted Fruit Dove, Moustached Treeswift, Rainbow Bee-eater, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, and Oriental Dollarbird. We also stopped at a small mudflat, finding Little Black Cormorant, Eurasian Whimbrel, Common Greenshank, Grey-tailed Tattler, Sacred Kingfisher, and Greater Crested Tern.

Day 11, 13^th August 2022. Birding on Waigeo Island and travel to Sorong

Our final birding session of the tour saw us heading back out into the forest of west Waigeo. There had been a lot of rain in the night and it was overcast when we awoke. Driving through the forest it was clear that it was much quieter than previous mornings. We walked the road for a long stretch and heard several species (lots of Common Paradise Kingfishers, Black-sided Robins, Blyth’s Hornbills, Zoe’s Imperial Pigeon, Pinon’s Imperial Pigeon, Glossy-mantled Manucode, etc.), but seeing anything was proving tricky, the best (possibly only) bird we saw for quite a long time was a Papuan Dwarf Kingfisher that sat in the open for all to see, so that was something good.

A bit later, while photographing a huge Giant Orb Spider, a Western Crowned Pigeon flew off the trail nearby. We spent some time looking for the bird, to no avail. However, the delay caused by this coincided with the sun finally coming out and almost immediately thereafter a flock of birds formed and were all around us! Within the flock we noted Raja Ampat Pitohui, Rusty Pitohui, Waigeo Shrikethrush, Golden Monarch, Spot-winged Monarch, Northern Fantail, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, Green-backed Gerygone, Fairy Gerygone, Yellow-bellied Gerygone, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Yellow-bellied Longbill, Pygmy Longbill, Pale-billed Scrubwren, Grey Whistler, Ruby-throated Myzomela, and Red Bird-of-paradise. It was a hectic but enjoyable end to our final proper birding session on the island, and for the tour.

After lunch we took a quick ride to the harbor where we got on the fast ferry back to Sorong, arriving late in the afternoon. We had a final group evening meal together and discussed the possibilities for “bird of the trip”, which threw up lots of different choices for a huge variety of reasons! Coming out on top was probably Red Bird-of-paradise, just, with Western Parotia, Black Sicklebill, and Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise all coming close. We saw a great deal of high-quality birds that weren’t part of the birds-of-paradise family, and some of the top picks of “other birds” included Moustached Treeswift, Feline Owlet-nightjar, Blyth’s Hornbill, Rainbow Bee-eater, Common Paradise Kingfisher, and Spotted Jewel-babbler.

Day 12, 14^th August 2022. Tour concludes with departure from Sorong

A non-birding day with everyone departing throughout the day.

A huge thank you must go out to our excellent local team of guides, porters, cooks, drivers, etc., for helping make the tour run so smoothly, particularly given the unseasonal poor weather we encountered at times. We’re already excited to return! Another huge thank you to everyone on the tour for making this such an enjoyable trip!

Please see the downloadable PDF above with the full species lists included. This is a sample trip report. Please email us ([email protected]) for more trip reports from this destination.

Indonesia: West Papua – Birds-of-paradise and Endemics of the Arfaks And Waigeo

Tour-Specific Information

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT INDONESIA CAN BE READ HERE

TOUR OUTLINE

This amazing, once-in-a-lifetime tour focuses on the multitude of endemic birds that can be found in West Papua and this includes numerous simply spectacular birds-of-paradise (BoPs), including possibly the best-looking bird in the world, Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise. This tour starts in Manokwari and ends in Sorong. We take in the excellent Arfak Mountains, home to loads of restricted-range “Vogelkop Endemics”, such as Arfak Astrapia, Crescent-caped Lophorina, Western Parotia, Long-tailed Paradigalla, and Vogelkop Bowerbird, along with more widespread (in New Guinea) Black Sicklebill, Spotted Jewel-babbler, Masked Bowerbird, and so many more. While in the Sorong area, we will visit the Raja Ampat Islands (specifically Waigeo) and this leg of the trip gives us the opportunity for the aforementioned Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise, along with King Bird-of-paradise, Red Bird-of-paradise, Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, Western Crowned Pigeon, Papuan Pitta, and Hook-billed Kingfisher.  This is just a tiny sample of what’s on offer on this tour, please refer to the detailed itinerary for further details.

DAILY ACTIVITIES, PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS, AND TOUR PACE

This West Papua, Indonesia birdwatching tour requires reasonable physical fitness and good agility to bird the relatively steep slopes found here. West Papua is one of the most remote and undeveloped areas within Indonesia, so remember you are visiting a developing country and will be camping/staying in the most remote areas, where there are no proper sanitation facilities. Expect many things to be very different from home, or even other parts of Indonesia.

We will shift our body clocks on this tour rising very early but sleeping early too. While we are birding in the Arfak Mountains we will usually have breakfast around 05:00 hrs, or earlier, to then get onto the trails and into bird blinds where we will wait for the birds-of-paradise to arrive (they usually display around first light or late afternoon). We will therefore usually be walking on the trails in the dark or half-light, so we can get into position before the birds do. After our early morning session in the bird blinds, we will do some forest birding on the trails and roads nearby until mid-morning. We will usually take lunch around 11:00 hrs before a siesta during the middle part of the day. In the middle of the afternoon, we will have another birding session before it gets dark, after which we will have an early dinner, checklist session, and then showers and bed. There is no electricity in the mountains, other than that supplied by the generator, which usually gets turned off around 21:00 hrs. When we are birding on Waigeo we will follow a similar pattern of activity and when in Sorong we will have a very early start as we leave the hotel at 04:30hrs to get to a forest patch for our birding there, either having an early breakfast before we leave the hotel or taking a boxed breakfast away with us.

Most birding occurs on narrow, sometimes swampy forest trails, and other times we will bird from wider roads and tracks that are often uneven and can be slippery. On the trails care must be taken as there are trip and slip hazards from damp roots, fallen trees, boulders, and uneven and rough surfaces. Walking sticks or hiking poles are a great idea as they provide added stability to help with balance and are compulsory for anyone who is not steady at walking. Most trails are either going up or down due to the nature of the terrain we will be birding in. Our local porters are excellent at helping those less physically active at getting around the trails and into position to view the birds. When we are in the lower areas of the Arfaks, and on Waigeo all our birding is carried out from our accommodation bases, so these walks can be optional if you’d like to take a rest for some of them. We have more than one chance for most of the birds-of-paradise (and other excellent birds) at these locations, so sitting a session out does not mean you will necessarily miss something totally.

We will also spend time within small bird blinds (which are often not particularly comfortable and may entail sitting on the ground or small stools) to get close to the various birds-of-paradise’s lekking/display sites. Any minor temporary discomfort will be well worth it when a Black Sicklebill, Western Parotia, or Magnificent Bird-of-paradise drops into view.

The village in the Arfak Mountains, makes a great base for walks of a few hours. These walks can, in sections, be tough, but we will take them slowly and we will have time to rest back in the village afterwards. The only activity different to the above scenario is the hike to the top of the Arfak Mountains. This is considered a tough hike (both going up and coming back down), with further tough hiking when we actually reach the top to look for the birds themselves. This trek should only be carried out by those of a good fitness level (please contact us if you would like to discuss whether you think you will be able to do this hike). If you don’t want to do the mountain hike and basic camping at the top of the mountain (see further details in the “Accommodation” section below), it will be possible for you to stay behind in the village where you will be suitably looked after while the rest of the group head up the mountain for one night.

In any reading you may have done on visiting West Papua, you may have seen reference to a requirement for a Surat Jalan (police clearance) for visiting the province. This is no longer required, however, please note that immigration officers at your first point of entry into Indonesia (such as Jakarta, Makassar, or Denpasar) are not always well-informed about West Papua and can be sensitive about this province, so if possible don’t even mention you are going there. Over recent years the Raja Ampat Islands have increased massively in both domestic and international tourism circles due to the excellent diving on offer, so an increase in visitors has made the area more well-known for tourism and tourists are a more familiar sight than they once were.

This is a fairly tough tour and unfortunately will not be suitable for everyone, though we try and make the birding as accessible to everyone as possible as we know that the birds-of-paradise and multitude of other spectacular and range-restricted birds are highly desired by birdwatchers the world over. The information within this document will hopefully help in your preparation for this tour and please do contact us if you have any specific requests for specific or further information. We have helped many people see the birds of West Papua who maybe thought they had missed their opportunity. While being physically fit will increase your enjoyment and participation in this tour we are also able to help those less active to get the most out of this tour, largely thanks to our extremely helpful local team who go above and beyond to work with everyone. The local people here are incredibly proud of their forests and their birds and they love to share these with us. Tourism to this area provides valuable income for the villagers as well as protects the forest for the birds and future generations.

We recommend that if you decide to join this tour (no matter your fitness level) that you work on your physical fitness prior to it, hiking up and down hills/steps is a good way to prepare.

TRANSPORTATION

We use a wide range of transport on the tour. Most of the driving is carried out in 4×4 vehicles (such as Toyota Hilux or similar) and depending on the final group size we may have between one and four vehicles for our birding expedition. We require that you are fit and flexible and can maneuver yourself into these high-clearance vehicles. We ask everyone to please be aware of the amount of extra equipment they bring into the seating area of the vehicles as there will not be much room (excess luggage can go in the back of the pickup). Most of the roads away from the towns are rough and windy (bring motion sickness tablets if you suffer from motion sickness) and at times this can be a little uncomfortable, however it is the only way to get to some of these remote birding places, so it’s worth the effort when you see the amazing birds!

We will fly across the island between Manokwari and Sorong (see the “Domestic Flights” section below). We will take several boat trips during the tour when we are in the Sorong area. This includes a fast-ferry crossing between Sorong and Waigeo and back. On these crossings, which last approximately two hours each way, we have seats in an air-conditioned (usually rather cold) room. There is very limited, often no, opportunity to birdwatch from the ferry. We will take a speedboat trip around some of the smaller islands in the area one afternoon and will bird from the boat around several islands that we can’t land on, and then access others that we can do. Accessing the speedboat or ferry may require climbing up or down a ladder onto/off a pier.

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

This tour requires a domestic flight between Manokwari and Sorong. The cost for this flight is not included in the tour cost. Once we confirm the tour, we will purchase flight tickets for everyone in the group at the same time to ensure we are all on the same flights and the cost will be added to your tour balance payment that’s due no later than two months prior to departure. This flight is likely to have a hold luggage weight limit of 44 pounds (20 kilograms) and a hand luggage allowance of 15 pounds (7 kilograms). Any overweight baggage will likely incur costs and will be the responsibility of the individual. Excess baggage costs will need to be paid in cash to the airline at the airport.

LUGGAGE

Please pack as lightly as possible for this tour (noting the expected weight allowance of the domestic flight detailed above). A medium, soft-sided, and robust duffle bag is likely to work best for packing in the tour vehicles. We recommend a daypack is used to keep items that you wish to use daily when in the vehicle or when birding in the field.

Note we usually spend one night camping in basic facilities higher in the Arfak Mountains than our basic village base lower down the slope, where we spend most of our nights while birding the area. For this one night you will need an overnight bag, this could be your day pack, or should be another small bag large enough for what you might need for one night (noting we will be at elevation so will require warmer clothes etc.). We must hike to the overnight spot, but our porters (for a nominal charge) can carry whatever we take up the mountain and we usually leave the remaining, and majority of, our luggage with our team back at our main base. Note you can also leave luggage in the hotel in Manokwari and take a smaller set of items to the mountain.

If you are not planning on hiking up to the top of the mountain (see information in the “Daily Activities, Physical Requirements, and Tour Pace” and “Accommodation” sections) then you don’t need to worry about bringing something for carrying luggage to the top of the mountain.

SAFETY

Your safety is our paramount concern on this, and all of our tours, hence the detailed information contained within this tour-specific information and the Indonesia general information. Our tour takes us to a remote part of Indonesia, and then to a remote part of West Papua too.

Political tensions in West Papua province have previously given rise to mass demonstrations in cities like Manokwari and Sorong. We monitor local news media as well as keep in regular contact with our various local guides and ground team (who live in these cities) to keep on top of potential security threats. Sometimes there are difficulties with internet connections and communications may be limited (i.e. they are cut off to prevent demonstrators being able to keep in contact to plan further disruption). We will keep clear of any and all protests, demonstrations, and political rallies to the best of our abilities as they can turn violent without warning.

Care should be taken when we are at the port in Sorong as there are a lot of people milling around trying to get paid for loading/unloading the boat and petty theft (e.g. pickpockets etc.) can be a concern as we are likely to stand out rather a lot. It will be important that the group stays closely together and maintains a tight hold of all personal equipment with eyes on bags and personal possessions etc. Please listen to the advice of your local guide or tour leader here. Similarly, care should be taken when passing through the airports, there is often lots of people standing around outside these and similar issues could be possible. Please do not go walking around outside the city hotels on your own as you could become a target of crime. Please speak to us if there is any need for you to go outside of the hotel (such as going to a shop to purchase a SIM card or snacks) as we will have someone we know accompany you.

Trips and falls when on trails, tracks/roads, around our campsites, and getting into or out of the 4×4 vehicles or boats are all possibilities on this tour and care should be taken. A hiking pole or walking stick is compulsory if you are at all unsure on your feet. Please seek the services of one of our excellent porters who will be able to help you navigate the sometimes steep and slippery trails. They are excellent and have helped many clients safely get around these remote birding sites. We do not have access to a satellite phone and regular cell coverage is limited when we are away from the cities. The nearest good emergency medical facilities in the case of a serious emergency might be in Australia (e.g. Darwin) so make sure you have suitable medical insurance in case something unexpected occurs.

Natural disasters such as earthquakes, tsunamis, volcanoes, and flooding are frequent across Indonesia and we will be monitoring the situation in the lead up to, and during the tour. Be aware that a volcanic eruption far away from the tour location can cause travel (flight) disruption, e.g. if a volcano erupts in or near the Indonesian international airports in Bali or Java.

There is a high risk of malaria in West Papua. Atovaquone/Proguanil or Doxycycline, or Mefloquine are recommended, but please consult your doctor or local travel clinic for specific advice. We will be spending time birding in lowland forests and mangroves over the dawn and dusk periods, where we will come into contact with mosquitoes. Mosquitoes are also present in the Arfak Mountains and can be a pest when we try and sit quietly in the bird blinds for the birds-of-paradise. Insect repellent with a high DEET concentration can be useful for keeping them away and reducing the chance of getting bites. DEET insect spray can also keep chiggers and leeches away. Chiggers can lead to Scrub (Bush) Typhus and can be incredibly irritating. Leeches do not spread diseases, but they are rather unnerving and can cause blood loss.

Care should be taken when swimming and snorkeling in the Raja Ampat Islands. The reef life is spectacular and some of the best diving in the world, with the highest diversity of fish anywhere on earth. However, with this comes serious danger in the form of creatures such Australian Box Jellyfish (Sea Wasp) and “Blue-ringed Octopus”. Please consult with the dive resort experts prior to taking a swim and follow any health and safety advice they provide.

WEATHER/CLIMATE   

While in the lowlands of Manokwari, Sorong, and Waigeo we can expect average daytime highs of around 87 °F (30 °C) and average nighttime lows of 75 °F (24 °C). There is often thick cloud cover here, resulting in hot and humid, rather oppressive conditions.

In the mountains it is cooler than the lowland temperatures and we can expect average daytime highs of around 65 °F (18 °C) and average nighttime lows of 50 °F (10 °C) when we are birding around our middle elevation sites of 4,500 feet/1,400 meters. When we reach the higher parts of the mountain, e.g. when we camp overnight at 7,000 feet/2,200 meters, we can expect lower temperatures again, and overnight temperature can feel cold.

The sun is strong at this time of year and care should be taken to remain hydrated and use sun protection. Rain is possible at any time, at any location so rain gear and an umbrella will be essential. A dry bag is also recommended for protecting optics, electrical equipment/cameras, and important documents (see the “What to Bring: Clothing and Other Items” section below).

ACCOMMODATION

Hotels in Manokwari and Sorong are typical western-style hotels with good facilities, restaurants, television, Wi-Fi internet, air-conditioning etc., and where you can get laundry done. There are supermarkets and pharmacies in the towns if you find you have forgotten something essential. Tea and coffee facilities are provided in rooms.

When you stay in the village in the Arfak Mountains (at an elevation of approximately 4,500 feet/1,400 meters), it is basic accommodation with electricity from a generator early in the morning and in the evening only (but enough to allow charging of phones/camera batteries etc.). Rooms are small bungalow-type buildings with, usually, a couple of bedrooms which are basic, and consist of beds with a mosquito net, a table, and an outside bench on the porch to soak in the astonishing views and birds. We will provide you with a sleeping bag and pillow. There are no proper showers, you can get heated water in a bucket when you need it though and have a ‘bucket shower’. There are western-style sit-down toilets located in the toilet/shower room (usually outside of the bungalow). We bring a cook up to the village with us and so still have very nice local meals during our stay. It is also possible to get laundry done here. Tea and coffee facilities are provided in a communal dining area. There is no Wi-Fi and very limited phone signal here.

When you hike up the mountains, you camp at 7,000 feet/2,200 meters on a palm/bamboo-style platform with a tarp roof, and it gets even more basic than in the village – with rustic pit/drop toilets, no showers, more basic food etc. We will provide you with a sleeping bag and sleeping mat (more comfortable if this is on the bamboo rather than just sleeping directly on the palm/bamboo-style platform). You should bring a travel pillow if you would like one. It is also cooler and damper at the top of the mountain where we spend the night, and it takes a full morning to walk up there (birding along a steep trail along the way). There is no electricity at the campsite, or a generator, so if you need to charge batteries you will need to have a power bank (portable power supply) to do so. We usually only stay at this upper campsite for one night. While this accommodation, or the trek to get there, is not going to be suitable for everyone, it is definitely worth the effort and temporary discomfort to try and see some of the special endemics that only occur high up the mountain (such as Arfak Astrapia, Black Sicklebill, and many more). Tea and coffee facilities are provided in the communal dining tent. See note in “Luggage” section regarding bringing a smaller bag for the overnight trip up the mountain. There is no Wi-Fi and very limited phone signal here.

There is a nominal charge for porters to carry daypacks, overnight bags, and other belongings, and this can be booked a day or two before the trek, when you first arrive in the village (you spend a couple of nights before (and after) the trek up the mountain, in the village at a lower altitude. You are also encouraged to tip the villagers for this service at your discretion (they also do a lot of other hard work for the group, e.g. heating water, making meals, etc.), and will help on the trails if you need help walking on the rough terrain, or if you want your daypacks carried.

In Waigeo, we usually stay in a dive resort near our main birding site. Rooms have a fan and air-conditioning, mosquito net, and private bathroom facilities. Tea and coffee facilities are provided in the restaurant area. There is excellent snorkeling or diving off the accommodation. There is no Wi-Fi and limited phone signal here.

Note the above is based on the pre-Covid-19 situation and will be updated further as soon as we are able to return.

ELECTRICITY

While we are in the Arfak Mountains we will not have any mains electricity. For our time in the village (where we will spend most of our nights) there will be limited electricity supplied by a generator. This is usually on in the early hours of the morning over breakfast and then for a few hours in the evening while we eat, do the checklist, get cleaned up, and get ready for bed. This is usually enough time to get camera and phone batteries charged up. When we go high up the mountain to our campsite there is no form of electricity at all, not even a generator. Therefore, if you think you will want/need to charge any electrical equipment you should bring a power bank (portable power supply). Make sure any power bank is certified safe for air travel as these items are likely to be inspected and checked over at airport security checkpoints (they have to go in hand luggage) and if they do not meet the required safety standards they are likely to be confiscated.

All other locations we visit on the tour should have a regular power supply, notwithstanding any unexpected power cuts etc.

COMMUNICATIONS

Phone signal is limited (or absent) for most of the tour route, with the exception of around the cities of Manokwari and Sorong. You may be able to use your international roaming package in Indonesia, but it may be quite expensive to do so. You may be able to purchase a local SIM card, however this can be quite complicated (e.g. if you purchase a card on a different island it might not work on other islands, without adding specific “local” credit through topping up a balance at a convenience store in cash). If you think you are going to need phone signal – where it exists – during the tour, please let us know as we might be able to purchase SIM cards in advance depending on the current rules in place, which do change from time to time. Our hotels in Manokwari and Sorong have Wi-Fi and this might be the most convenient way to go about communicating with the outside world during the tour if you should wish to do so.

FOOD AND MEALS

In the cities and tourist areas (e.g. Manokwari and Sorong) we will eat in the hotel restaurants where most types of food (Western and Indonesian) and drinks will be available. Meals will become simpler as we move into the mountains while birding the Arfak Mountains and there will be no alcoholic drinks (unless we bring our own with us). Our accommodation on Waigeo provides home-cooked Western and Indonesian meals served buffet style.

We can accommodate vegetarian and special dietary needs if we know in advance. Most meals are based around chicken or fish with rice and noodles, and mixed vegetables, tempeh, and tofu. Fresh fruit will be available. Due to the lack of refrigeration, dairy products are not common. We suggest you bring your favorite snacks or protein bars to supplement your diet.

MONEY

Getting money out of ATMs on this tour in Manokwari and Sorong can sometimes be difficult. It is recommended that you either bring a supply of Indonesian rupiah with you from home or withdraw some cash from the international airport that you arrive at. You are likely to have time to do that prior to catching your onward flight to Manokwari, such as when you are in Jakarta, Makassar, or Denpasar.

WHAT TO BRING: CLOTHING AND OTHER ITEMS

The following is a list of useful items to bring on this West Papua birding tour and should be read in conjunction with the Indonesia general information document.

1. A field guide to the region. Either of the following books are suitable. Our tour leader will have digital copies of each. Birds of New Guinea: Including Bismarck Archipelago and Bougainville – Phil Gregory (2017), Lynx Edicions. This field guide has a clear and modern layout and current take on New Guinea, but is only available as a hardback and is expensive. Birds of New Guinea – Thane K Pratt and Bruce M Beehler (2014), Princeton University Press, 2nd Edition. This field guide is older and more ‘arty’ than the above guide with some plates tough to follow, but is a softback and is affordable.
2. Overnight bag (small rucksack) for stay in the Arfak Mountains, either one that is used for the time in the mountains, or just for the one night at the higher elevation campsite.
3. Hiking pole or walking stick to help on the tracks and trails. A walking stick is compulsory for anyone who is unsteady walking, as we feel this is a safety issue; we don’t want anyone slipping on the trails or anywhere else. Please discuss with us if you are unsure whether you will need one or not.
4. Torch (flashlight) and/or headlamp, and spare batteries – we will be camping overnight in the mountains with no electricity and at our base lower down the mountains we will not have electricity between c.21:00 – 05:00 hrs. Additionally we will likely be setting off into the forest when it is still dark, so this is essential kit.
5. High concentration DEET insect repellant.
6. Anti-malarial tablets.
7. Leech socks – useful, particularly if it is wet.
8. A small personal first aid kit. See the suggested items from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), here. There are pharmacies in Manokwari and Sorong, but we will only have limited access to these.
9. Footwear is a matter of personal preference. Rubber boots are probably essential in muddy conditions and often dry out quickly, but often lack suitable ankle support which can be given by walking/hiking boots (especially useful on the hike up the Arfak Mountains). If you don’t mind getting dirty in favor of better ankle support, go with walking boots. If it is particularly wet during the tour it may be possible to purchase rubber boots in Manokwari before heading up the mountain, if there is time/availability of your size.
10. Quick-drying clothes are the best for this tour and a good selection of clothing layers are also recommended for time at the higher elevations where temperatures will be much lower than in the lowlands (see the “Weather/Climate” section for further information on likely temperatures during the tour).
11. Rain jacket (and small umbrella) and a coat/fleece for the time in the mountains.
12. Swimwear, mask, and snorkel for optional swimming during free time in Waigeo (note that equipment can be hired from the dive resort, so you don’t need to bring your own if you don’t want to or are limited for space in your luggage – there is likely to be a charge for hiring any equipment and this should be paid in cash).
13. A small hand towel or wash cloth can be handy for cleaning and drying things when in the rainforest. Not essential but handy.
14. A dry bag to keep valuable documents in such as passports, cell phones, wallets etc., as well as cameras if it rains.
15. Power bank – essential if you want to charge items while camping as there will be no electricity at all in some areas – e.g. higher parts of the Arfak Mountains, and limited electricity during the daytime lower down the mountain (see the section on “Electricity” above for further information).
16. A travel pillow and travel bath (i.e. large) towel for time in the Arfak Mountains. We will provide other camping gear, such as a sleeping bag and a sleeping mat/roll mat. If you would prefer to use your own camping equipment, please feel to bring it along.
17. A mosquito/fly net might be useful for use at the top campsite in the mountains, to keep creepy crawlies off of you at night.

Download Indonesia: West Papua Information

Indonesia General Information

‘I had a terrific trip, and realized virtually all my expectations for this excursion. There were 6 people on the trip, and I was the only one NOT a birder, but that did not detract from my enjoyment. My goals with this trip were to see and hopefully photograph the birds-of-paradise, and to my delight, I was able to do that. The local guides were terrific.

Andy Walker was our overall tour guide, and his knowledge of the birds is encyclopedic. He kept the group well organized, on time, and in position to see many very special birds. Andy has promised to send me information on additional trips to PNG and Vietnam.’

Alan